Tree stumps—whether remnants of a beloved old tree or casualties of emerald ash borer or storm damage—can quickly become a nuisance in the yard. Beyond being an eyesore, they can impede landscaping efforts. Fortunately, stump removal is a straightforward process with several options to fit different needs and budgets.
Grinding | Decay | Accelerating Decay | Digging | Leave It | Methods to Avoid | More Information
Professional Removal
The quickest, easiest, and safest way to remove a tree stump is by hiring an arborist to grind it out. These large machines will chew away the stump and any large lateral roots, typically down 8 to 12 inches. The stump is gone within a matter of hours and the process requires little manual labor. The drawback to this method is its cost. Arborists will charge by the size of the stump, measuring it at its widest point.
When complete, a large pile of wood shavings will remain in the hole. Most arborists will not remove this material unless it is requested. Additionally, the hole will only be filled if requested. Both of these services typically have an additional cost. Ideally, these shavings are removed before new topsoil is added and the area is replanted. The shavings left behind from professional stump removal will drastically change the structure, moisture-holding capacity, and nutrient balance of the soil, making it difficult for any new turf or other plants to grow. Any shavings or soil removed after stump grinding can be composted or sent to a municipal composting site.
Natural Decay
Allowing the stump to naturally decay is a cheap, easy, and safe option for stump removal, but it requires patience. Several factors play a role in how long it takes a stump to naturally decay to a point where it can be broken up and removed. Depending on the soil moisture, abundance of wood-decay fungi, and tree species (among other things), the process can take 10+ years.
Promoting Natural Decay
Gardeners can speed up the process of natural decay in several ways. Start by cutting the stump off as low to the ground as possible. Drill several one-inch-wide holes in the stump to increase the amount of area exposed to wood-decaying fungi. The holes should be spaced no more than 12 inches apart and should be at least ten inches deep.
To further promote decay, these holes can be filled with a slow-release fertilizer (about 4 ounces per hole). Most fertilizer formulations will work, but a formulation high in nitrates will promote the quickest decay. Fill the holes with topsoil and cover the stump with soil or sod to help speed up the process even more.
Commercial stump removal formulas/chemicals can also be used as directed on the label. These products tend to simply be a form of fertilizer (often potassium or sodium nitrates), so regular fertilizers can work just as well. Some of the products will also contain a herbicide, such as triclopyr, glyphosate, or imazapyr, to help prevent resprouting. Use these products as directed to prevent damage to nearby plants.
When these methods are applied, the stump can usually be easily broken up and removed with a sharp spade after one to three years.
Digging
Digging out the stump is very labor-intensive, but it is quick and can be done on smaller tree stumps (those less than 12 or so inches in diameter). The smaller the stump, the more realistic this option becomes. Digging or pulling the stump of a larger tree is not practical.
To remove, dig a trench one to two feet deep around the tree stump and use a saw to sever all lateral roots you encounter. Using a long, sturdy pry bar, pry the stump to one side to cut any roots underneath and remove the stump. Fill the hole with topsoil and replant as needed. It is helpful to leave the stump four to six feet tall (rather than cut off at ground level) to provide leverage for prying and lifting the stump from the ground.
Use great caution when using a chain or rope to pry or pull the stump from the ground. Chains that slip or break while pulling can cause great harm to people and property in the area.
Leave the Stump
Dead stumps are important sources of food and shelter for many insects, birds, and other wildlife. Consider leaving the stump, in particular those located in areas that are isolated or where there is little risk of damage to property or people. Insect larvae live in the decaying stump and provide a food source for birds and other animals. The hollow centers that form become a shelter for owls, squirrels, and other wildlife.
Stumps can also become decorative or sculptural elements in the garden. Your options are limited only by your imagination.
Regardless of whether you intend the stump to be decorative or serve as habitat, its structural stability is an important consideration. Evaluate the decaying stump regularly and remove it when it poses a risk to people or property should it fall.
Methods to Avoid
Burning
While you may have seen it done by a neighbor or your grandparents, some methods of stump removal are not recommended. Top of the list is burning. Accelerants, like diesel fuel, can leach into the soil and are highly flammable and dangerous. Stump fires can burn for days and are difficult to control and extinguish. Additionally, many cities and counties do not allow burning.
Unnecessary Herbicide Applications
Some stumps will resprout after the tree is cut down. Applying herbicides to the stump right after cutting can help reduce resprouting. Herbicides with the active ingredients glyphosate, triclopyr, or imazapyr can be used. Avoid the use of products that contain picloram (Tordon), as this herbicide easily leaches and remains active in the soil for a long time, causing a lot of collateral damage in the garden. Herbicides only need to be applied to the living cambium tissue, which is in a ring just below the bark. Be sure to clean off any sawdust or soil before the application. If sprouts appear after the herbicide application, cut the sprouts and reapply the herbicide. Repeat this process until sprouts stop emerging.
While herbicides can be used to prevent resprouting, they are not beneficial for promoting decay of the stump. Any herbicide poured into drilled holes or over the stump well after the tree's removal will only leach into the soil and potentially damage nearby plants.
More Information
- Choosing an Arborist (PDF)
- Arborist Search - International Society of Arboriculture
- Can I replant a new tree in the same spot after an old tree is removed?
Photo credits: 1: JJ Gouin/AdobeStock; 2: Jim Vallee/AdobeStock; 3: marynkin/AdobeStock; 4: dejavudesigns/AdobeStock