Deciduous and evergreen shrubs provide beauty, shade, and habitat for wildlife in the home landscape. They can also screen unsightly views, provide privacy, reduce noise pollution, and provide many other benefits. The most common way to establish shrubs in the home landscape is to purchase container-grown plants at local garden centers and nurseries or plant bare root shrubs.
Before planting, it is important to select the best shrub for the planting site. Learn more about in this article: Tips for Selecting and Purchasing Trees and Shrubs.
When to Plant
Container-grown shrubs can be planted anytime during the growing season, although some time periods are better than others. Early spring through early summer (mid-March-early June) works well for most shrubs. Dormant shrubs can be planted as soon as the ground thaws in spring and ideally are planted before the heat of summer starts.
Late summer and fall are other good times for planting. Deciduous shrubs can be planted from August through early November. Evergreen plants, such as pine and spruce, can be planted from mid-August through September. Evergreens planted in late October or November may not have adequate time to become established before the onset of winter and could be subject to desiccation injury and death.
How to Plant Container-Grown Shrubs
To successfully establish shrubs in the home landscape, it's important to follow proper planting techniques.
Dig a hole that is 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball and at a depth equal to the height of the root ball. Shrubs planted in containers should be planted at the same depth as they are planted in the container. Slope the sides of the hole so that the top is several inches wider than the bottom.
In poorly drained soils, the depth of the hole should be approximately two-thirds the height of the soil ball.
Once the hole has been prepared, carefully lay the shrub on its side. Tap the sides of the container to loosen the soil ball from the container, then slide the shrub out of its container.
You may have to cut the containers off large, container-grown shrubs. Also, cut away the containers of poorly established shrubs to prevent the soil ball from falling apart. Begin by cutting off the bottom of the container. Place the tree in the hole, then cut away the sides of the container. All containers, including fiber and fabric ones, should be removed.
If the sides of the soil ball are a mass of roots, shave the outer half-inch of soil off the root ball (or more, if needed) with a sharp knife or spade. The goal is to remove any roots that circle the root ball, leaving behind those that are pointed straight out from the root ball. Often, cutting the round root ball into a box shape is the best way to ensure you remove most of the circling roots.
Carefully place the shrub in the hole. The top of the soil ball should be at the same grade as the surrounding soil.. In poorly drained sites, the top one-third of the soil ball should stick above the surrounding soil.
Gradually fill the hole with soil. With each new addition of soil, firm it in place with your hands. Do not add compost, peat, or other organic materials to the soil. Once planted, water thoroughly.
How to Plant Bare Root Shrubs
Bare root is an economical way to purchase shrubs. They require special consideration as they arrive with no soil around their roots and should be planted as soon as possible after you get them.
Learn more in this article: How to Plant Bare Root Shrubs and Roses.
Care of Newly Planted Shrubs
Watering
Water newly planted shrubs every day for 3 or 4 days and then gradually reduce the frequency of watering. When watering, apply water slowly to the root ball and the surrounding soil thoroouhgly wetting the soil down at least . A thorough watering every 7 to 10 days (in dry weather) should be sufficient 3 to 4 weeks after planting. Continue monitoring and applying water when the original root ball or the surrounding soil are dry. Check and water when necessary the entire first growing season. Watering can stop when the ground freezes, typically in November in Iowa.
Learn more in this article: Watering Tips for the Garden, Lawn, and Landscape: Trees & Shrubs.
Mulch
To help conserve moisture, place 2 to 4 inches of mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, around shrubs. Mulches also help control weeds, moderate soil temperatures, reduce turfgrass competition, and reduce the risk of mechanical damage to the base of the shrub from errant lawnmowers and string trimmers.
Fertilization
It is generally not necessary to fertilize newly planted shrubs. Most Iowa soils can supply sufficient amounts of nutrients during establishment. If the shrubs grow poorly 2 to 3 years after planting, fertilization may be beneficial. Poorly growing shrubs often exhibit sparse foliage, yellow-green leaves, or short annual branch growth. In these situations, apply the first application of fertilizer at the beginning of the second growing season. Use a general, all-purpose fertilizer at the rate listed on the packaging.
Pruning
Shrubs utilize sugars and other carbohydrates manufactured by the foliage for plant growth. Therefore, avoid the temptation to severely prune newly planted shrubs. Severe pruning reduces the plant's ability to manufacture food and actually slows plant growth. Newly planted shrubs require only corrective pruning. Remove structural defects, such as dead, broken, or crossing branches.
Winter Protection
Rabbits can cause damage to newly planted shrubs over the winter. Placing chicken wire or hardware cloth fencing around vulnerable plants is the most effective way to prevent rabbit damage to trees and shrubs in the home landscape. To adequately protect plants, the fencing material needs to be high enough that rabbits won’t be able to climb or reach over the fence after heavy snow. In most cases, a fence that stands 24 to 36 inches tall should be sufficient. To prevent rabbits from crawling underneath the fencing, pin the fencing to the soil with U-shaped anchor pins.
Learn more in this article: How to Protect Trees and Shrubs from Animal Damage Over Winter.