The orchid family (Orchidaceae) is one of the largest plant families on earth, with more than 28,000 known species. Orchids can be found on every continent except Antarctica, but it’s the tropical regions of the world that grow the most diverse number of species. They are noted for their uniquely shaped, colorful, and often fragrant flowers.
Types | Care | Rebloom | Common Issues | FAQs | More Information
Types of Orchids
Many orchids are epiphytes that grow on top of other trees, shrubs, or rock outcroppings, often clinging with coarse aerial roots. They get water and nutrients from the air, rain, and any organic debris that may pile around them. Other orchid species, especially those grown in temperate climates, are terrestrial, growing in the soil of grasslands and forests.
Tropical, epiphytic orchids make up the majority of orchids grown and collected as houseplants. Hundreds of species can be cultivated indoors, but a few species are much easier to grow and are readily found at greenhouses and garden centers. The best orchids for home gardeners to grow include:
- Moth Orchid (Phalaenopsis)
- Dancing Lady Orchid (Oncidium)
- Cane Orchid (Dendrobium)
- Corsage Orchid (Cattleya)
- Slipper Orchid (Paphiopedilum)
The Best Orchids to Grow at Home
Care of Orchids
Often, orchids appear to be hard-to-care-for or delicate plants. The opposite is actually true! The difference is that orchids require different care than typical houseplants.
Light | Soil/Media | Containers | Temperature | Humidity | Air Movement | Water | Fertilizer | Deadheading & Pruning | Repotting | Moving Outside for Summer
Light
Light is one of the most limiting factors for growing orchids indoors, as it affects water and fertilizer needs. When plants do not have enough light, they are dark green and will not flower. A medium, grassy green color indicates adequate light levels. Orchids require bright indirect light, often the same kind of light that African violets (Saintpaulia) prefer. Avoid hot exposures – usually east and south-facing windows are best.
If natural light is insufficient, use supplemental light. Select high-output, full-spectrum fluorescent or LED lights placed 6–12 inches above the foliage for at least 14 hours daily.
Soil (aka Media)
Most orchids are epiphytes, meaning they grow on trees, shrubs, or rocks rather than in soil. Indoors, they are typically grown in a medium containing coarse bark or sphagnum moss, both of which provide the sharp drainage needed for healthy roots.
What the gardener uses is often a matter of personal preference. The most common media types are coarse bark pieces or coarse, unmilled sphagnum moss. Bark mixes, usually made from fir bark chips, offer excellent drainage, dry quickly, and are forgiving of overwatering; however, they break down rapidly and require frequent repotting. Sphagnum moss retains more moisture, making it easier for beginners, but it also risks overwatering and root rot; additionally, it requires regular replacement.
Some growers mix bark and moss for an ideal balance of air and water retention. Advanced growers may use media like clay pellets, rockwool, or lava rock. A few orchids, such as Vanda and Brassavola, can be mounted directly to the surface of a board or on another plant without media, although this method requires high humidity and frequent watering.
Container
Orchid containers must have excellent drainage, and as a result, often have larger holes on the bottom and sides.
Options for orchid containers include:
- Clear plastic pots (allow for roots to photosynthesize too!)
- Plastic pots with raised domes in the base
- Net pots – plastic containers reminiscent of a laundry basket
- Wooden baskets
- Terracotta with drainage holes on the bottom and side (which is porous to allow for quicker drying)
- Glazed ceramic with drainage holes on the bottom and side (looks great, not as porous)
Double pots can work well to disguise ugly plastic pots; just be sure they never hold excess water. Orchids like “cramped quarters,” so a properly sized container often looks a little too small.
Temperature
Orchids are often classified into three main groups based on the temperatures they prefer.
- Cool (60-75°F days). Preferred by Cymbidium, Odontoglossum, Miltonias, and some Paphiopedilum and Dendrobium
- Intermediate (70-80°F days). Preferred by Cattleya, Oncidium, some Phalaenopsis, and many Paphiopedilum and Dendrobium.
- Warm (75-85°F days). Preferred by Doritis, many Phalaenopsis, and some Paphiopedilum and Dendrobium.
If unsure which group your orchid belongs to, treat it as intermediate, as most orchids thrive in these temperatures. A 10-15°F day-to-night temperature drop is essential for flowering and growth. Seasonal variation between summer and winter also supports flower development, and most homes naturally provide this.
Take advantage of “microclimates” in your home. For example, cooler spots, such as spare rooms or areas near windows, suit orchids that prefer lower temperatures. Check conditions with a thermometer that records daily minimum and maximum readings to ensure proper temperatures throughout the day and year.
Humidity
Relative humidity indoors, especially in winter, is usually far below the ideal range for orchids, which is 40–70%.
Methods to raise humidity include:
- Grouping plants – especially with other plants like ferns
- Humidifiers
- Pebble trays
- Terrariums
- Misting is not effective (the droplets are too big!), but misting can be beneficial for watering and cleaning foliage.
A humidity gauge is a valuable tool that helps you maintain the right range for this crucial environmental factor.
Air Movement
Unlike other houseplants, Air movement is crucial for orchids and closely tied to humidity. High humidity is beneficial for orchids, but without adequate airflow, it can encourage disease. However, too much airflow lowers humidity and dries plants too quickly. Use a fan or ceiling fan to create gentle circulation where leaves barely move. If they move a lot, consider reducing or repositioning the fan.
Water
Watering is the most critical and most challenging aspect of orchid care. There’s no universal schedule; it depends on species, size, light, temperature, humidity, media, container, season, and growth stage. Water just as the media dries, but before wilting. Orchids with bulbous-shaped stems at the base of the leaves, called pseudobulbs (e.g., Oncidium, Cattleya), should dry completely. Those without (e.g., Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilum) should be watered just as the media dries.
When to Water
To know when to water, check the media. Dry media is lighter in color and weight. A wooden chopstick inserted into the media will come out completely dry and can be used as an indication of when to water. The simplest method is to touch the media. If it feels dry, water it; if it's wet, wait. When unsure, wait another day or two.
How to Water
Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom and avoid wetting the foliage. Much of the water applied will flush away. This ensures that all the media is thoroughly wetted and helps flush out excess salts and fertilizers that may accumulate over time. Then repeat after a few minutes for full absorption. Always empty saucers, trays, or outer pots within 30 minutes, and never allow plants to sit in water.
Water with Ice Cubes?
Some growers use ice cubes to water orchids by letting them melt into the media. Most experts advise against this, though one study found no harm to growth or bloom duration in some species. All the same considerations must be considered whether you water with ice cubes or running water. Water only when the media is dry and never let orchids sit in water.
Water Source
Nearly all municipal water sources and well water are suitable for use with most orchids. If it is safe to drink, it is typically suitable for use with orchids. Avoid softened water, which can cause salt buildup. Dehumidifier water is acceptable, but it may add metals over time. However, both of these issues are typically avoided if plants are repotted on a regular basis. Rainwater is best, but not always readily available. Distilled water can be used for sensitive species.
Fertilizer
Orchids require less fertilizer than most houseplants, but proper nutrition is essential for healthy blooms. Fertilize frequently at a low dose (quarter strength or less). This “weakly weekly” approach to fertilization works well for most orchid species and gardeners. Use an all-purpose fertilizer or select one that is formulated for use on orchids. Ensure they do not contain urea and have a balanced mix of micronutrients. Water-soluble fertilizers are often the best and easiest to use. At least once a month, skip the fertilizer and thoroughly flush the media with plain water to prevent salt buildup. Fertilize only when plants are actively growing in the spring and summer months. If the rooting media is very dry, thoroughly wet it before applying fertilizer.
Pruning and Deadheading Orchids
Orchids will not need extensive pruning. Remove any brown or dead leaves and aerial roots with sharp pruners or scissors. Sterilize the pruners between plants to prevent the spread of any diseases or viruses.
After the flowers fade, remove the stalk at the base with sharp, sterile pruners, scissors, or razor blade. The orchid will produce a new stalk when it is ready to rebloom.
The popular moth orchid (Phalaenopsis) is one of only a few species that will occasionally continue flowering on the same flower stalk. For moth orchids, once the final flower has faded, cut it above the second node on the stalk. The nodes are the small, slightly raised lines encircling the flower stalk. New blooms may appear in 8–12 weeks, although this is not guaranteed (but it's worth a try!).
Repotting Orchids
Orchids benefit from repotting every two to three years. Oftentimes they don't need to be put in a larger container. They just need new media. Learn more in this article: How to Repot an Orchid.
Moving Orchids Outdoors for Summer
Moving orchids outdoors in summer can be great for orchids (who doesn't like a summer vacation?!). Wait to move until nights stay above 55°F. In most parts of Iowa, this is usually the end of May. Place them in a location with full shade. Even if grown in bright indoor light, the change in light intensity when moved outside is significant. Transition them to light shade over a couple of weeks. To prevent foliage damage, avoid placing plants in direct sunlight.
Once outdoors, care looks similar to indoors. The frequency of watering and fertilizing will likely increase. Monitor frequently for pests such as scale, mealybugs, and spider mites. Bacterial and fungal diseases are more common in outdoor settings with splashing water and higher humidity. When you see a disease issue, remove infected leaves with a clean/sterile cutting tool, taking one inch of green leaf tissue below the damage – treat the cut end with a fungicide.
In late summer, cooler nights help trigger blooms, but bring orchids inside before the temperature drops below 50°F. Clean indoor spaces thoroughly and monitor for pests, particularly ants and roaches, in the substrate for several weeks after moving indoors.
Learn more in this article: Moving Indoor Plants Outside for the Summer.
Getting Orchids to Rebloom
Some orchids bloom annually, while others bloom continuously throughout the year. Providing all the proper environmental conditions (light, temperature, water, fertilizer, etc.) will enable the orchid to continue blooming year after year.
There are several reasons why your orchid may not be blooming as it should. Learn more in this article: How to Get Orchids to Rebloom.
Common Issues of Orchids
Even with the best of care, issues sometimes arise when growing orchids indoors. These issues are typically caused by environmental problems, insects, or diseases. Common issues include excessive light, fertilizer burn, pests, root rot, and viral infections. Learn more in this article: Diagnosing Issues with Orchids Grown Indoors.
FAQs
- How do I get my orchid to rebloom?
- How are blue orchids made?
- What is the proper care for a moth orchid?
More Information
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- Indoor Plants (publication)
- Diagnosing Houseplant Problems
- Growing Succulents Indoors
- All About Air Plants
- Improving Indoor Air Quality with Houseplants
- How to Create and Care for a Terrarium
- Propagating Houseplants
Photo credits: Aaron Steil