Growing Cantaloupe, Muskmelon, and Other Melons in the Home Garden

Few fruits are more refreshing on a warm summer day than melon. Whether they are cantaloupe, muskmelon, honeydew, or some other melon, their flavor, aroma, texture, and sweetness can't be beaten! Sweet melons need lots of sunlight, warm temperatures, and good care. Learn more about selecting, planting, caring for, and harvesting cantaloupe, muskmelon, honeydew melon, and many others.

The distinction between cantaloupe and muskmelon is not always clear. Cantaloupe (Cucumis melo var. cantalupensis) typically refers to melons with sweet, orange (sometimes green) flesh and smooth, ribbed rinds. Cantaloupes are primarily of European origin. Muskmelon (Cucumis melo var. reticulatus) usually refers to melons with sweet, orange, musky-smelling flesh, and netted rinds. Muskmelon is primarily of North American origin. However, the two terms are often used interchangeably, especially for the reticulatus variety. Honeydew melon (Cucumis melo) is a cultivated variety in the inodorus group with green flesh and smooth green rinds. While these three melons are common in Iowa gardens, there are many others in the Cucumis melo species, such as Canary, Persian, Horned or Jelly, Oriental, Galia, Bailan, and Paddy melons. All of these melons are cultivated similarly to the more familiar muskmelon.

Melons are members of the Cucurbitaceae family and are closely related to other family members, including watermelons, pumpkins, squash, gourds, and cucumbers. Plants are vining and are typically allowed to ramble along the ground. They can, however, be trained to trellises, although support must be given to the large developing fruit as it enlarges and ripens.

Pollination of Melons

Melons are monoecious—meaning they produce separate male and female flowers on the same plant. The female flowers develop into fruit after bees transfer pollen from the male flowers. You can identify female flowers because they have a small bulge at the base of the flower.

Each female flower is open and receptive to pollination for only one day. The more bee visits per flower, the greater the number of seeds per fruit, the larger the size of the fruit, and the fewer number of misshapen fruit. Cool, rainy, or windy weather limits bee activity and pollination. Low temperatures can prevent the development and release of pollen.

Avoid using insecticides that are injurious to bees. When insecticides are needed, apply early in the morning or late in the evening when bees are less active.

Planting

Site Requirements

Plant melons in full sun and fertile, well-drained soil with a soil pH of 5.5-7.0. The planting site should receive at least 6 hours of direct sun each day. Heavy, poorly drained soils can often be improved by incorporating organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, into the soil.

When to Plant

Melons are warm-season crops. Plant cantaloupe, muskmelon, and honeydew melon after the danger of frost is past and soil temperatures have warmed to 60 to 70°F. Melons can be planted in mid-May in central Iowa. Gardeners in southern Iowa can plant about one week earlier—plant one week later in northern areas of the state. The last practical date to sow early maturing melon varieties is June 20.

Muskmelon and its close relatives take a relatively long time to grow to maturity. Getting an early start is desirable, but early planting is not possible when spring temperatures are too cold. For an earlier crop, melon transplants can be started indoors. Start seeds indoors 3 to 4 weeks before the anticipated outdoor planting date. Plantable containers, such as peat pots, work best as both plant and container are transplanted directly into the garden, resulting in little damage to the transplant's root system. Sow 3 or 4 seeds per container. Later, remove all but two seedlings. Transplant outdoors when plants have 1 or 2 true leaves. Harden the plants outdoors for a few days prior to planting to lessen transplant stress. Initially, place the transplants in a shady, protected location and then gradually expose them to longer periods of direct sun.

How to Plant

Melons are usually planted in hills. Plant 4 or 5 seeds per hill at a depth of 1 inch. Later, remove all but 2 or 3 healthy, well-spaced plants per hill when seedlings have 1 or 2 true leaves.

Melon hills should be spaced 1.5 to 2 feet apart, with 5 to 6 feet between the rows. If garden space is limited, bush-type varieties are available.

Care

Fertilizer

Apply 1 to 2 pounds of 10-10-10 or a similar analysis fertilizer per 100 square feet of garden area prior to planting. Use the lower rate on sandy loam soils and the higher rate on heavier, clay-based soils. For specific recommendations, conduct a soil test.

When setting out transplants, apply a starter fertilizer solution at the rate of 1 pint (2 cups) per transplant. For the starter solution, follow the label directions on a water-soluble fertilizer or dissolve two tablespoons of all-purpose garden fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, in one gallon of water.

Watering

While muskmelon, honeydew, and cantaloupe will not tolerate wet conditions, they require consistent and abundant moisture. Plants should not be allowed to dry out. Dry conditions during germination result in poor and uneven seed emergence. A shortage of moisture at bloom results in poor fruit set and misshapen fruit. Moisture stress close to harvest greatly reduces melon size and results in rapid vine decline. Therefore, a consistent supply of soil moisture should be maintained from germination through harvest.

Drip irrigation works well as it provides water directly to the root zone and reduces the wetting of the foliage, which can promote disease issues and weed growth (both of which are difficult to deal with when growing melons).

During dry weather, irrigate by applying 1 to 2 inches of water every 7 to 10 days. Irrigate in the early morning to reduce foliage diseases. As the fruit approaches maturity, apply half as much water per application.

Soil type does not affect the amount of total water needed, but it does affect the watering frequency. Sandy soils need to be watered more frequently but require less water per application.

Weed Control

Controlling weeds can be difficult as the foliage canopy does not provide dense cover to shade out germinating weed seedlings fully. Additionally, it can be difficult to walk among the vines to pull or hoe weeds without damaging stems or fruit. Utilize mulch, like grass clippings, straw, cocoa hulls, or plastic, to conserve moisture and reduce weed growth. Pull or hoe weeds carefully to not damage the shallow root system. Stay ahead of weeds, removing them before they become large or difficult to access.

Using Black Plastic

Black, clear, or colored plastic mulch film can be used to promote early melon production. Plastic promotes spring growth by allowing sunlight to more efficiently warm the soil. The plastic mulch also helps to conserve soil moisture and control weeds.
Lay the plastic over moist soil on a calm day. If the plastic is laid over dry soil, it will delay subsequent plant growth. Anchor the edges of the plastic mulch by making furrows 2 or 3 inches deep.
Place the edges of the plastic in the furrows, then fill the furrows with soil. To plant, simply cut holes in the plastic with a sharp knife or bulb planter. The holes should be in the center of the plastic film and just large enough to plant the seeds or transplants.

When using plastic mulch, use the lower rate of fertilizer. Incorporate the fertilizer into the soil before laying down the plastic. Regular irrigation is required as the plastic does not allow for water to penetrate. The best option is to use drip irrigation under the plastic mulch. It helps to produce higher yields and discourages foliar diseases.

Harvest & Storage

Muskmelon & Cantaloupe

The fruit of muskmelon or cantaloupe are mature when the stem pulls (slips) easily from the melon. The melon is not ripe if the stem has to be forcibly separated from the fruit. Other indicators of maturity are based on touch, appearance, and aroma. The melon's flower end (the end opposite the stem) should be slightly soft. The skin between the netting turns from green to yellow. Finally, a ripe melon produces a strong "muskmelon" aroma, though often the fruit will slip off the vine before the melon is sufficiently lifted to one's nose to sniff!

Muskmelons can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. The optimum storage temperature is 36° to 45° F. Before refrigerating, place melons in a plastic bag to prevent the muskmelon aroma from flavoring other stored foods.

Honeydew Melon

Unlike muskmelons, the fruit of honeydews do not slip off the vine when mature. Indicators of ripeness are a change in color of the honeydew from pale green to yellowish-white, a slight softening of the blossom end of the fruit, and the development of a light, pleasant aroma. When harvesting honeydew melons, leave 2 inches of the stem on the fruit.

Honeydews can be stored for 2 to 3 weeks at 50° F.

Potential Problems

Poor Fruit Set, Blossom Drop, Fruit Drop

Poor fruiting of vine crops may be due to the plant's flowering habit and poor pollination. Learn more about poor fruit set in this article: Reasons for Poor Fruiting of Vine Crops.

Blossom-End Rot

Blossom-end rot is a physiological disorder most familiar to gardeners growing tomatoes, but it can happen on other vegetables, including peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, squash, and watermelons. On melon, the blossom end of the fruit begins to rot, and within a short time, the entire fruit has rotted. Blossom-end rot is caused by a lack of calcium in the developing fruit. In most cases, there is no need to apply calcium to the soil. Try to maintain an even moisture supply by watering once a week during dry weather. Also, do not over-fertilize plants. Uneven moisture supplies and excessive nitrogen inhibit calcium uptake.

Poorly flavored and Colored Fruit

Poorly drained soils, heavy rainfall, or too much irrigation for a week or two before harvest can cause poor flavor and lower sugar content.

Fruit Cracking or Bursting

Heavy rainfall or too much irrigation, especially as the melon approaches maturity in the week or two before harvest, can cause bursting and cracking of the fruit.

Damping-Off

Pythium damping-off attacks the roots and stems of germinating seeds and young seedlings. Stems turn brownish and water-soaked at their bases and may fall over and wither. Leaves of some transplants may turn yellow, while others dry up and die within a few days after planting.

Cool, wet conditions make transplants and newly germinated plants vulnerable to Pythium damping-off.

Most commercial melon seeds are treated with fungicides to deter damping-off. However, damping off can still occur when environmental conditions are particularly favorable. It is often best to avoid planting when conditions are too cool and wet. It is better to plant a little later when conditions warm and/or dry out than to risk losing plants to damping off.

Should seedlings die, replanting is often possible and can be done immediately following the removal of dead seedlings as long as weather conditions are favorable.

Fungal Diseases

Some foliar diseases appear where air circulation is reduced and leaves remain wet, such as in low areas and along borders sheltered by trees. Foliar diseases typically appear first on leaves close to the base of the main stem. Common foliar diseases on melon include powdery mildew (Podosphaera xanthii, Podosphaera fuliginea), Downy mildew (Pseudoperonospora cubensis), Cercospora leaf spot (Cercospora citrullina), Alternaria leaf blight (Alternaria cucumerina), and Anthracnose (Colletotrichum orbiculare), among others.

Fruit rots such as Southern blight (Sclerotium rolfsii), charcoal rot (Macrophomina phaseolina), and Anthracnose (Colletotrichum orbiculare), among others, can cause considerable damage to fruit as they ripen.

Diseases on stems and vines include gummy stem blight (Didymella bryoniae). It occurs more frequently when temperatures are warm and humid. Brown or white lesions form on stems, crowns, and sometimes fruit. These lesions occasionally ooze and amber-colored sticky substances.

Wilt diseases like Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum) and Verticillium wilt (Verticillium dahliae) can cause wilting confined to one or more vines. As it progresses, more leaves wilt for longer periods, and leaves turn yellow. Stems may also develop discolored vascular tissue.

In the home garden, fungal diseases are best controlled through preventative measures. Avoid overhead watering or water in the morning so foliage can dry quickly during the day. Avoid working in wet foliage (from irrigation or heavy dew) to prevent the spreading of fungal diseases. Reduce soil splash by putting down a layer of mulch to lower the potential of spreading fungal diseases from soil to plants. Remove and destroy dead foliage at the end of the growing season. Reduce weeds and eliminate possible alternate hosts for common diseases. Crop rotation is also very beneficial. Make sure not to plant muskmelon, cantaloupe, honeydew or any other cucurbit (squash, cucumber, melon, etc.) in the same area for at least 3 to 4 years. Frequent scouting to identify and respond to disease issues as soon as they are observed is important. To control diseases, fungicides (if used) are most effective when applied at the onset of visible disease symptoms. Fungicides are not as effective on wilt diseases as the organism is inside the stem tissue, making it difficult to get fungicides to them.

Bacterial Diseases

Diseases caused by bacteria include Bacterial wilt (Erwinia tracheiphila) and Angular leaf spot (Pseudomonas syringae). Managing these issues can be found in these articles: Cucurbit Bacterial Wilt and Angular Leaf Spot.

Viral Diseases

Viral diseases often cause stunted and/or distorted growth and fruits. Leaves may become mottled or develop interveinal chlorosis, leaving a mottled appearance. Viral diseases that affect melons include Cucumber mosaic virus (CMV), Cucurbit yellow stunting disorder virus (CYSDV), Watermelon mosaic virus (WMV), Squash mosaic Squash mosaic virus (SqMV), and Zucchini yellow mosaic virus (ZYMV).

These viruses can be transmitted by seed, so buying certified virus-free seed is beneficial. Insect vectors, such as aphids, can also spread them. Reducing aphid populations can reduce the spread of the disease to other plants. Clean and disinfect tools regularly, as tools and hands also transfer viral diseases. Select varieties that are resistant to viral diseases. Remove and destroy any virus-infected plants and all those plants in the immediate area (3 to 5 feet radius). Rotate crops to prevent future spread.

Insect Pests

Insect pests are usually most critical in the seedling or early growth stage. Row covers applied at planting and removed at first bloom (so pollinators can do their work) can be used to exclude insect pests. Cucumber beetles, squash bugs, mites, and aphids are the most common insect pests of muskmelon, honeydew, cantaloupe, and other melons.

Control can be done in home gardens using cultural techniques like hand-picking, row covers, good weed management, and trap crops. Organic and synthetic insecticide applications are more effective when made early in the season when insect pests are small and easier to kill. Insecticide applications should be made only when necessary, as determined by field observations and correct insect pest identification. Insect populations often fluctuate greatly from year to year.

Recommended Cultivars

Cultivars that do well in Iowa include,

‘Aphrodite’ (oval 6 to 9 lb. fruit)
‘Athena’ (oval 4 to 6 lb. fruit)
‘Ambrosia’ (round 4 to 5 lb. fruit)
‘Divergent’ (round, 4 lb, good for organic systems)
‘Earli Dew’ (honeydew type, pale green flesh)
‘Goddess’ (early maturing, 6-8 lb.)
‘Hale’s Best’ (oval 4 to 5 lb. fruit, heirloom)
‘Passport’ (hybrid melon, green flesh)
‘Sarah’s Choice’ (oval, 3 lb.)
'Sensation' (white flesh)
‘Snow Leopard’ (honeydew type, 2 lb.)
'Sugar Cube' (round, 2 lb.)
'Superstar' (large, 6 to 8 lb. fruit)
‘Wrangler’ (oval 4-5 lb.)

More Information

Authors:

Aaron Steil

Last reviewed:

July 2024