All About Holiday Cacti

Holiday cacti refer to a group of closely related flowering houseplants, including Christmas, Thanksgiving, and Easter cacti. These easy-to-grow indoor plants can live for generations, often passed down in families. Their longevity comes from being low-maintenance.  They thrive on benign neglect, rarely suffer from pests or diseases, and seldom need repotting.


Types  |  Growing & Care  |  Flowering Conditions  |  Propagation  |  Managing Problems  |  FAQs  |  More Information


Thanksgiving cactus in flower
Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) in bloom

Types of Holiday Cacti

Holiday cacti are native to the humid, tropical, and semi-tropical mountain forests of southeastern Brazil. They are epiphytes, growing in tree crotches and absorbing water and nutrients from rain and decaying matter (remember epiphyte and parasite are not the same thing!). Their stems consist of flattened segments called phylloclades, which perform photosynthesis and give the plant its distinctive look. Flowers form at the tips of these segments.

Several species in the cactus family (Cactaceae) and genus Schlumbergera are called holiday cacti. They look similar but have unique characteristics.

Thanksgiving Cactus

Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), once classified as Epiphyllum truncatum and Zygocactus truncatus, is the most familiar holiday cactus. It’s widely available from early fall through Christmas. Flowers range from white to red, lavender, and salmon-orange, with many shades in between. Stem segments have 2–4 upward-pointing teeth, and they typically bloom from mid-November to late December.

Christmas Cactus

Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera × buckleyi), a hybrid of S. russelliana and S. truncata, was created in England about 150 years ago. It has also been known as Epiphyllum buckleyi, E. rollissonii, and Schlumbergera bridgesii. Most plants sold as “Christmas cactus” are actually Thanksgiving cactus or hybrids. True Christmas cacti have scalloped stem segments without pointed teeth and arching branches that produce 3-inch, rosy-red flowers from late November to early February.

Hybrid Cultivars

Many holiday cactus cultivars are hybrids between several different species.  They differ in branching habit, growth rate, stem segment shape, flower form, flower color, bloom time, and plant form (pendulous, semi-pendulous, or erect). Some more closely resemble Thanksgiving cactus, others Christmas cactus, and some have intermediate traits.

Holiday cacti comparison
The shape of the phylloclades can help determine the type of holiday cactus

Easter Cactus

Easter cactus (Schlumbergera gaertneri), formerly known by many names including Hatiora gaertneri, Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri, Epiphyllopsis gaertneri, Rhipsalis gaertneri, and Epiphyllum russellianum, is less common than other holiday cacti. It blooms primarily from March to May, featuring pink or red flowers, and may rebloom in early fall. Stem segments are smoother than other types, with 4–6 slight ripples and brownish bristles at the tips.

Growing Holiday Cacti

Transport holiday cacti carefully in winter—cold exposure can damage plants or cause buds to drop.

All three types require similar growing conditions.  Indoors, holiday cacti prefer bright, indirect light and temperatures between 60°F and 70°F.  Grow in well-drained potting soil, but a special cactus mix is not required.  All-purpose potting soil can be used if it drains well.  Plants grow best when slightly pot-bound, so only repot when they have completely outgrown the container.  Holiday cacti can go many years without repotting.  When needed, the best time to repot is spring or early summer when plants are not in bloom.

Unlike desert cacti, holiday cacti shouldn’t stay dry. While the plant is budding and flowering, keep the soil evenly moist.  Dryness can cause buds or flowers to drop. After flowering, move to a cooler location and water less frequently. 

When not in flower, keep plants on the dry side. Allow the soil to dry completely between waterings.  Overwatering leads to limp growth and root rot. Fertilize monthly during the growing season.

Holiday Cactus Variety
Holiday cacti can come in many different flower colors.

Flowering of Holiday Cacti

Required Conditions for Flowering

Holiday cacti bloom in response to changes in day length and temperature. They are short-day plants, growing vegetatively in the summer and forming buds as the days shorten in the fall. Most species and cultivars need 14–16 hours of uninterrupted darkness to trigger buds, although some cultivars may bloom with as little as 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness.

Temperature is equally important: above 70°F prevents flowering even with short days. Ideal indoor conditions are 60–70°F with short days (long, uninterrupted nights).  Some Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti will bloom if kept at 55°F in fall, regardless of day length.

How to Get Flowers in Your Home

To ensure blooms, in late summer, place holiday cactus in a cool spot (55–65°F) with bright daytime light and no artificial light at night.  Artificial light from lamps or kitchen lights can disrupt bud formation. An unused bedroom or basement works well. Provide consistent care during bud development by avoiding excessive soil dryness, drafts, or overwatering, as these can cause buds to drop. To be enjoyed, plants can be relocated to a prominent location when they bloom.  Do not move the plant until flowers begin to open, as doing it sooner can cause buds to drop.

Flowering of Easter Cactus

Unlike the other types, Easter cactus has a more regimented temperature and light requirement to produce blooms.  In the fall, provide 14–16 hours of uninterrupted darkness and temperatures of 60-70°F for 3-4 weeks, followed by temperatures of 47-55°F for 4-6 weeks. After this short day and cooling requirement have been met, grow plants with longer days in temperatures of 60-70°F.  This complicated series of day-length and temperature requirements may naturally occur through the winter months.  However, flowering is unlikely if these conditions are not met.

Thanksgiving cactus in flower
Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) in bloom

Propagation of Holiday Cacti

Holiday cacti are easy to propagate. Remove 2 to 5 stem segments at a joint, then let the cut ends callus overnight. The next day, insert the cuttings about 1 inch deep into moist perlite or coarse sand and firm the medium. Be sure not to place the cuttings upside down, as they will not root if they are positioned that way. 

Place in bright light and water when the medium begins to dry. Roots form in 6 to 8 weeks. When they reach 1 inch or longer, transplant into a well-drained potting mix.

Managing Problems with Holiday Cacti

No Blooms

Holiday cactus requires proper environmental conditions to flower.  Critical factors in flower initiation are day length and temperature. 

They are short-day plants, forming flowers when days shorten in the fall. Holiday cactus won’t bloom if exposed to artificial light at night. Things such as lamps, kitchen lights, or even streetlights can interfere. Plants require 14–16 hours of uninterrupted darkness to bloom. 

Temperature matters too.  When the temperature exceeds 70°F, it prevents flowering. Ideal conditions are nighttime temperatures of 60–65°F, with slightly warmer days.

Flower Buds Fall Off

Thanksgiving cactus in bud
To avoid premature bud drop, don't move holiday cacti to a new location until the first flowers start to open.

Sudden changes can cause buds to drop. Provide good, consistent care during flower bud development. Avoid excessive watering, allowing the soil to dry out excessively, or making other marked changes to their care during flower bud development. To prevent flower bud drop, avoid moving the plant during flower bud development.  Holiday cacti can be moved and displayed in another room when the first flowers begin to open. 

Small Brown Bumps with a Sticky Substance On and Under the Plant

These symptoms usual indicate an infestation of scale insects. These common indoor plant pests have waxy shells and attach to stems or leaves to suck sap. Their life cycle includes egg, nymph (also known as a crawler), and adult stages. Eggs hatch under the female’s shell. Crawlers move to new sites, insert stylets, and start feeding, then develop protective shells and  remain at these feeding sites for the rest of their lives. 

Scale insects are difficult to control. The shell-like covering protects the scale from contact insecticides. These insecticides are only effective when applied during the crawler stage (before the insects develop their protective shells). Because it’s difficult to determine when crawlers are present, and they can be hatching and crawling on a continuing basis, scale-infested plants need to be sprayed with insecticidal soap every seven to 10 days until the infestation is eliminated. Small infestations can be controlled by individually scraping off the scale pests or by dabbing each scale insect with an alcohol-soaked cotton swab. 

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Last reviewed:
December 2025